The problem was that this is a low production, kinda specialized motor serial number is So it diden't show up in most of the data lists. I did find lots of info on the antique outboard site.
Maybe I should join there too and try to get some leads. Right now this isn't a priority. It's just something I was having fun with, and I'd like to find parts, but without much in the way of funds, I really don't want to search too actively and get anyone mad by pestering them, then not being able to pay for anything.
So I'm just keeping my eyes open, and getting the word out. The more people I ask the better my chances of finding something. Thanks for all the leads. It all helps. You mean electrolosis? That may work, but I've found it tends to be 'line of sight'.
If the rusty metal is shielded from the electrodes in the tank by another piece of anything, the rust doesn't come off there too well.
So I'm not to sure how well it would work on all the internal components. But it may be worth a try if all else fails. And it may be exactly what I need to do to clean up the crank and other internals if I do get it apart.
I'll have to clean up my 'De-ruster' bucket and buy a new box of Borax. I think I can offer you some insight on this motor, I have a Super C, mine is a model , which is a electric start model.
I can tell you that your motor is not likely to be a racing model, the racers had a special oil tank and bracket that mounted on the front of the motor, your machine does not appear to be set up that way.
Your model number should be on the ID plate, if there's a serial number there has to be a model number with it, and I didn't see it listed in the previous posts. I've experimented with all the name brand rust busters and penetrating oils, and I'll only buy Gibbs from now on. But, if your crank is stuck like you think it might be, even getting the pistons unglued might be far from the end of it.
If there's rust in the crankcase, you're also going to have rust on the roller bearings that are fitted on the crank end of the connecting rod. If the bearings are rusted and pitted, the crank journals will be too. The Evinrude outboard motor has become a staple of novice to professional boaters who want quality workmanship and a brand they can trust. Evinrude, started by Ole Evinrude, began to change directions after his wife Bess became ill in the early 20th century.
This life changing event caused him to sell half of his Evinrude business. Bess became better and Evinrude started producing outboards again.
The ELTO ushered in a time of innovation for Evinrude to include the use of aluminum to reduce the weight of the outboard and moving the exhaust of the outboard underwater.
Locate the identification number on the ELTO outboard motor. The top side of the bracket is a tag made of metal containing the word Evinrude with a series of numbers. Looks really rough. A real model Storm Boat Motor would be rare as most have been converted to civilian use as an Evinrude Big Four model The Storm Bout Motor was designed for the Storm Boat and used a special bracket that allowed them to be levered into the boat.
One of our Florida meets featured the Big Four and 9 members showed up with them. One of my favorite outboards.
They were the King of the water ways until Mercury came out with their inline six. Thanks very much for your comments and pictures , I have attached the only photo I have meantime. I take it these motors were also made for civilian use not just war service , like the Seagull Skip to content Elto serial number. Elto serial number. Ask A Member. This topic has 11 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 9 months ago by cookie1.
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