If you own this do you like it? Would you buy it again? Thanks, Troy. I've installed alot of em I like them in that they give you a continuous top rail.
If the receiver threads aren't true you'll know it, but that's going to be the case with any of the rail out there. A picatinny clamp on scope ring or base helps alot in alignment with the receiver rail and makes it easier to install straight without having to hold your mouth right. Other than that, just have to be careful getting the delta ring assembly off and the rest of the install is pretty easy.
The finished product is nice, you should be happy with it. I installed one on my AR and it was easy; though you will have to remove the delta ring, which you can either cut it with a dremel or dimantle the upper and remove the parts; after that, I used my ramovable carry handle to align the rail and the upper and followed the instructions.
Took me about 20 mins. My recent install was pretty easy and I love the rail, here are some instructions and this may be helpful as well. Good luck! I would buy Troy again if it LaRue stopped making rails.
The hardest part is bringing yourself to cut the delta ring off your rifle. Just make sure you go slow so you don't mess up your receiver. I wanted to update anyone looking into the Troy MRF-C, the install was pretty easy, took about 30 minutes.
The VIS will be offered in carbine pictured here , mid-length, and rifle lengths. A low profile gas block will fit under the VIS so it's possible to have either a gas-block front sight, or a rail-mount front sight. It gives the AR a new look more noticeable on the left side , and I find it quite appealing.
The right side of the receiver has an interchangeable 'panel', just rear of the ejection port. The user has the choice of installing a shell deflector assembly with or without a forward assist.
Max width is about 2. It's heavily ventilated. Pins in the forward and mid section hold the removable lower handguard in place. Lower Handguard - The lower handguard is removable by flipping two levers, which disengage the mid pins in the upper handguard.
The front of the lower handguard has cutouts which engage the front pins. Note that there will be changes to the lower handguard and added options in the production VIS. Beyond the different features listed above, there isn't much practical difference in functionality. The advantage that the VIS offers is a bi-lithic upper at a very reasonable price. When you look at the cost of a standard upper receiver and rail system, the VIS is extremely competitive, and I'm predicting will be a front runner on the list of people putting together new AR uppers.
Very little has been changed from the pre-production prototype shown above except that the material is now T6 instead of T6. There have been minor changes to the lower handguard and a re-designed latch. Instead of a small hole for bullet tip, the latch is now bent over to allow anything that will fit in there to be used to pry it up. It's tight, and designed that way, as the lower handguard isn't meant to be removed and replaced all the time.
Provisions for mounting an M has also been added, and a rear mount is supplied with each kit. When I wrote the preview above, I wasn't able to disassemble the upper, so I've shown more photos of the un-barreled receiver below. The VIS kits come with a proprietary barrel nut wrench, to torque the proprietary barrel nut. There's no indexing of the barrel nut needed, and proper torque can be achieved. The VIS barrel nut also allows the barrel to be installed with gas tube and block already in place.
Besides salt dip brazing, Vltor is also experimenting with other methods of joining the receiver and handguard together to improve production flow, like simple heli-arch welding and a new process called friction stir welding. As mentioned above, the VIS does not have a quick-change barrel, but it's definitely easier to change the barrel on a VIS than a standard upper, especially if you have a rail system installed.
As long as the replacement barrel has been set up with a VIS barrel nut, the change should only take a few minutes. My patience paid off, and Eric put this together for me. Ops-Inc shoulder and mid-length gas system. Vltor M4K. The M4K enables an M to be mounted on a shorter barrel than an M4, resulting in a more compact package when maneuverability and compactness is a priority. It accomplishes that with a modified M4 barrel, and proprietary flash hider.
Also shown is the new Vltor gas block with integral front sight. Photos were supplied by Vltor. Receiver - VIS-1carbine length Bi-lithic upper receiver. Barrel - The M4K barrel is a chrome-lined M4 barrel, shortened to approx It uses a carbine-length gas system. The extra barrel length past the gas block adds reliability over a shorty of Why not just cut the barrel forward of that shoulder?
Vltor designed the M4K hider to be compatible with hider-mounted supressors like the HALO, which attach over the hider and tighten by butting up against the rear of the hider. If a crush washer is used, the supressor can be misaligned when tightened, as it doesn't have a nice shoulder to index against. A blank-firing adapter groove is also included. The flash hider has five dual ports, and is non-indexing. Vltor will also offer a version without the M shoulder, as a direct replacement for the standard hider.
Vltor Front Gas Block and Flip-Up front sight - The Vltor front gas block and flip-up front sight will look strangely familiar to some. Nope, it's not a copy of the KAC gas block with integral front sight. It's actually the other way around. Eric Kincel designed this gas block back in when he was with the now defunct Unitech - the gun division of knife makers Microtech.
Unitech and KAC were embroiled in legal matters at that time, and eventually KAC acquired all the tooling to make the sight, and did, which evolved into the current KAC product. Eric has revived his Unitech design, and updated it for Vltor. It's an all-steel, flip-up design, with a spring loaded dual-plunger detent.
There is no lock. If hit, the sight will fold down, rather than damage a locking mechanism. It incorporates a QD sling swivel cup mount, and uses an AK front sight post. The photo below shows the original Unitech front gas block that Eric designed a decade ago, and the new Vltor one.
The gas block will be available in a both cross-bolt clamp and taper pinned versions. Why go this route? The first thing that hit me when I handled it was that it was more compact in person than in pictures.
The workmanship and finish is just beautiful on this piece. Receiver - The length of the receiver is about Mil-std rails cover the entire length of the top of the receiver, sides and bottom of the rail portion, which is 2. This is the narrowest rail system I've measured. The receiver without barrel is very light. The other tightens the receiver around the barrel extension - 'clamping it'.
Stainless steel threaded inserts on the other side of the receiver ensure durability of the threads. Barrels - LMT currently offers chrome lined barrels in The chrome lined barrels are marked "5. The gas tube is of standard diameter, but straight instead of kinked like the standard gas tube. A low profile gas block is protected by the handguard tube.
The gas block is cross pinned to the barrel and the gas tube is held via a standard roll pin. The gas tube is supported at the receiver end by a bracket attached to the barrel. Overall impressions - What more can I say - it's one of the coolest things for the M4 I've seen recently.
It feels very lively - maybe because I'm used to all kinds of accessories hanging off my rail systems. Some may question the need for the interchangeable barrel system. Much of the comparisons have been based on cost these are not cheap. You can buy two different length barreled uppers for the price of one MRP with two barrels. You can have dedicated optics on each of the two receivers whereas the MRP has to share optics. Repeatability and POI change concerns during barrel swaps have been voiced.
I have not yet tested it myself but reliable sources have stated that repeatability in POI is good when a barrel is removed and replaced. Difference in bullet trajectory between By definition, CQB distances will be short, and a tiny difference in trajectory over CQB distances will be unnoticeable. I'd sight in my optic with the long barrel, and leave it at that. Of course, I'd try to document the differences between POI between barrels if possible at known distances.
The advantage I see to having this system instead of two separate upper is that a spare barrel is much lighter and compact to carry. There are advantages and disadvantages to every system, but I'll see you on the forums for that discussion :- But keep an eye on LMT - I'm sure they've got more goodies up their sleeves. The Docter sight is similar in idea to the Tasco Optima now out of production. The Docter, however, is superior in almost every respect, being made out of stainless steel, brass and aluminum instead of plastic.
The lens is made of two optical quality pieces of glass instead of plastic. There is no on-off switch; the sight turns on when exposed to light, and adjusts automatically for varying lighting conditions.
This particular model has a 3. It's extremely light and small, and makes for a very streamlined setup. It's weather resistant, not waterproof, but a waterproof military model is available at twice the price. Also shown is the Yankee Hill offset mount, which makes a great light mount when combined with a 1" QD ring. It puts the light tailcap right under your thumb where it's activated easily.
Seen below is the M mounted on the top of an MRP. Navy, which allowed it to be installed at the user level without any modifications to the host weapon and also allow the attachment of the M grenade launcher. It was adopted by the U. The barrel remains free-floated; the handguard does not touch any part of the barrel except at the barrel nut. There's the upper handguard assembly, which consists of the top rail and clamp, and the upper handguard. Then there's the lower handguard, plus the five bolt-on rail sections.
The upper and lower handguard are bent aluminum sheet metal, formed into an octogonal cross-section. The lower handguard attaches and detaches by squeezing the two 'ears' at the front of the rail and pivoting it down. There are two 'hooks' at the rear of the lower handguard, which hook over pins in the upper handguard. To re-attach the lower handguard, it's hooked in the rear, then swung upward until the 'ears' snap into place in the upper handguard.
Very quick, very simple. The lower handguard is removed when an M is a attached to the weapon. The CASV, however, is easier to install, and to remove and replace the lower handguard. To install the CASV, the plastic M4 handguards are removed, and the front sling swivel if you're using the standard M4 sight tower. The top rail clamp is loosened, and the handguard assembly slipped onto the receiver, while pulling back on the delta ring.
The inside of the handguard has a groove in which the top part of the barrel nut sits, so when that is engaged, the delta ring is allowed to spring forward and capture the rear of the handguard.
The rail clamp is then tightened, and you're done. The top handguard has six inserts on each side for mounting the rails on the side. The main drawback to the CASV and any other top rail mounted system is that it raises the top rail. In the CASV's case, it raises it about. This limits the optics mounting options if you're trying to co-witness the irons to a dot sight. An EoTech seen mounted above will not co-witness; it's too high, and will need to be removed before the irons can be used.
Although it's only about 2. Attaching the side rails for the mounting of accessories puts the accessories further out than on other rails systems except the SIR. The CASV is meant to be used without rail covers, as the standoff distance between the barrel and the inside wall of the handguards is enough to keep them from getting too hot, so in that respect, it feels no wider than other rails.
You only install the rails you need, and keep the rest off. The advantages of the CASV over other rail systems is that it's probably the easiest free float rail to install. It's lightweight, rigid, and provides an uninterrupted top rail for mounting optics or aiming devices.
The barrel is free floated so pressure on a vertical grip will not affect point of aim. The extended sides provide more real estate and options for mounting accessories, and also help protect the front sight base.
Until now, midlength gas system users could use the CASV-EL, but the sight tower cutout would leave the midlength gas tube semi-exposed. The M covers the gas tube completely on a midlength system. They share the same top rail and at first glance they look almost identical, but here are the main differences:. Top short rail and flip-up front sight - Forward of the top rail is that flat are with the two threaded inserts.
A short length of rail, which is included in the kit can be installed to extend the top rail to the end of the upper handguard. A separately available flip-up front sight can also be installed. The sight uses a standard AR front sight post, and is spring detent loaded in the folded and deployed positions. Illustrated below is the CASV-M installed on two Noveske uppers, both with low profile gas blocks installed underneath the handguards.
In other words, the rear portion is the same as the EL and M versions, then the rail drops down forward of the receiver to the same height as the receiver flat top. This allows the use of any rail-mounted front sight on the front portion of the rail with a low-profile gas block on the barrel.
The top half of the handguard has been reduced in height to accomodate the lower rail, while the bottom portion remains the same height. This results in a lower-profile feeling rail.
Width is the same as the other CASV versions. The CASV-S is illustrated below on the rifle with a low profile gas block and MI folding front sight mounted on the front of the bi-level rail. Please contact Vltor directly for more information on the release date.
Shown here is the Lite Rail It's the lightest free float rail with a steel barrel nut, weighing The quality of machining and finishing is top notch. Width across the rails is approx 2" and height is 2. The Lite A sleeve which provides the six-bolt interface fits into the rear of the rail and is welded in place. The rail free floats off the barrel nut.
Parts - The DD Lite rail The steel barrel nut replaces the standard barrel nut and has four slots which accept a proprietary stamped-steel wrench. That's my only gripe about the Lite rail - it needs a special wrench to be installed that's purchased separately. Hopefully DD can come up with an alternate, less expensive solution. The bolt up plate is a ring that has six holes which interface with the rear of the rail, and serves as the mounting clamp to the barrel nut when the rail is attached and the bolts are tightened.
Installation see 5th photo from left, below - The barrel nut wrench is pictured in 1. The bolt up plate is placed on the receiver extension 2 , making sure the gas tube hole lines up with the one in the receiver and the barrel is installed to the receiver. The barrel nut is then slid over the barrel 3 , and tightened with the proprietary barrel nut wrench 4. You can obtain the proper torque with this setup since you're not trying to line up the barrel nut with the gas tube hole.
Very easy and quick. The rail is then placed over the barrel and bolted up to the bolt up plate. The gas block has to be installed after the rail, as it will not pass through the rear opening. If a rifle length gas system is used with the Since I had an intermediate gas system read more below , the gas block was covered by the rail, which blocked access to the set screws at the bottom of the gas block. Luckily, the rail has holes at the bottom, so I left the rail loosely bolted up with a couple of bolts, lined up the holes, and tightened the set screws.
I then proceeded to install the rest of the bolts. The bottom two screws install from the muzzle end, and the others from the receiver end. When I first tried to install the bottom screws, I thought they went in from the rear, as I hadn't read the printed instructions nor looked at any photos. If I had actually read the included instructions before starting, like they recommended, I'd have known that. When I finally read the instructions and realized my dumb mistake, I corrected it and installed the rest of the bolts.
I just put it across the top, straddling the receiver and rail and kept it snug. I tightened the bolts in a cross-sequence manner.
I installed the TangoDown ACB-4 bipod and the legs tucked up perfectly into the bolt-up interface see right pic. Vltor had only two of these Vltor-marked made. It's an The intermediate length system is longer than a midlength, and shorter than a rifle length system. It's actually 1. This enables the gas block to be protected just inside a rifle-length rail see above.
The two experimental barrels were made by Compass Lake Engineering CLE for Vltor from a Douglas Premium stainless steel barrel blank and came with a matching headspaced bolt. Vltor also manufactures low profile steel gas blocks, both in bead blasted stainless finish and parkerized. Noveske is currently using Vltor gas blocks for their barrels. The gas blocks come in clamp and set screw versions.
They've got grooves machined into the sides for cosmetic appeal and the Vltor sword logo engraved on the front. Very nice indeed. Gas block mounted. LaRue Tactical 7. The rails are available in five different lengths total length of the handguard - including carbine, midlength, rifle length and some variations.
Featured here are the 7. The 7. The handguards are machined from aluminum extrusions and mil-spec hard coat anodized matte black for a lasting finish. The threaded rear ring portion is machined as a separate piece, then mechanically joined to the handguard part using a proprietary system and also sealed with aerospace adhesive to eliminate the chance of any moisture from flowing between the joints.
The first thing I noticed was that they felt slim. Taking some rough measurements, I measured the rails to be 2. I do like the feel of a slimmer handguard as I've got small hands and a narrower rail is easier for me to get my hands around, especially with rail panels. There's always that compromise between radiated heat from a hot barrel and comfort the closer to the barrel the hotter it can get , but the LaRue handguards are extensively ventilated to allow airflow.
The rails have laser engraved "T-numbered" positions, and also the KAC panel 'cuts' at each end which enable the KAC panel clip to snap in place. The photo on the right show how the components go together. The keeper is grooved, and when the two bolts are tightened down, prevent the handguard nut from rotating.
The front of the upper receiver sits in the channel in the keeper, and prevents the whole assembly from rotating. Installation - The handguard, being essentially one-piece tubes, requires the removal of the front sight base for installation. Once that is done, the standard barrel nut can be removed, along with the delta ring assembly - none of those parts are needed. The handguard nut is first slipped over the end of the barrel, along with the barrel nut. The keeper is placed on the upper receiver and the barrel nut snugged down by hand until a barrel wrench is needed.
Using a barrel wrench, the barrel nut is tightened and loosened three times, then torqued so the gas tube hole lines up properly. The spacer is then installed in the rear of the handguard which is slipped over the front of the barrel and the handguard nut tightened and snugged up with a strap wrench.
The keeper screws are installed and this locks down the handguard nut and prevents it, and the whole assembly from rotating. The same procedure applies to all the LaRue handguards. Installed, the handguard feels completely solid, with no movement whatsoever. A really nice touch is the sling swivel insert at the rear of the rail, which accepts Uncle Mike's sling swivels.
The great thing about it is that the insert limits the rotation of the swivel, so the sling doesn't twist. Looking at the side profile, the top of the handguard rail is at the same height as the receiver flattop. The bottom rail is slightly higher closer to the barrel than some others, contributing to the slim overall feel of the handguard, which is preferable to me with TangoDown panels installed.
LaRue Midwest Industries, Inc. Bushmaster V-match upper that I had almost forgotten about and thought needed updating. The receiver wasn't even a real flattop - it had a weaver mount screwed onto the top of the upper receiver with the carry handle machined off. The round aluminum FF tube also looked outdated and was limited in what I could attach to it.
I had a spare flattop receiver sitting around, and looked at my options for a rifle-length free float rail. I didn't want KAC or Troy Industries as I already have uppers with those products, so I decided to give the Midwest Industries, Inc rail a try as I'd heard good things about them, and am familiar with their well-made sling adapters.
MI makes both free float and non-free float forearms in a variety of lengths. The non free float rails simply replace the factory handguards - no alteration to the host weapon needed. The free float forearms require that the delta ring be removed. This can be done by dremeling it off without having to remove the front sight base.
The V-match had no delta ring, so I had to take off the front sight base anyway. My first impression was that it was a nicely made, quality item.
The hard-coat anodizing was even, and a deep matte black. Laser-etched T-numbering was crisp on all four rails. I also noticed that it felt wider than my other handguards. The outside measurement across rails was about 2. I asked Troy at MI about this, and he explained that the free float handguards are made from the same extrusion as the non-free float handguards, and use common sized rings for attachment to the host weapon.
By having one sized symmetrical handguard instead of two, the savings are passed on to the customer, and that's reflected in the affordability of MI's forearms. Although I'd like as narrow a profile as possible, the upside to a wider forearm is that the rails are further from the hot barrel.
The MCTAR also has a lot of ventilation with large holes and a gap between the upper and lower assemblies. The main components are the upper and lower rails, a barrel clamp and a front C-shaped ring. The upper rail has the top half of the barrel clamp already installed, held in by 4 screws. It slips over the barrel nut, and the bottom clamp is installed with four bolts and tightened.
There aren't any 'anti-rotation' ears that index the upper receiver, and personally I'd like to see some added to the top half of the barrel clamp for a warm fuzzy feeling. But as long as the barrel nut is torqued properly, there shouldn't be a problem with it loosening and rotating.
The front C-ring is then installed to the upper rail. The bottom rail is then attached at the front C-ring, and with a screw at the rear. The entire process takes less than 5 minutes, if you've already got the delta ring off. The MI rails have the cutouts for the KAC panel latches to engage, located at the front, rear and midway down the rail.
When I slid a KAC panel all the way to the rear, the latch wouldn't engage. The barrel clamp prevents the panel from going far back enough for the latch to engage. It's a quick and easy fix, though - the user can solve it by cutting off the portion of the tab behind the KAC panel that interferes which is what I did.
It's just a 0. The latches now engage and the panels are locked on the rails. With KAC Panels. The TD ACB bipod does have to be mounted so the feet clear the rear of the rail, and the legs fold up nicely along the rail. It's also M or shotgun compatible with the bottom rail removed. The other features are also shared - crisp T-numbering on all four Picatinny rails and large holes for ventilation. The forearm has two pieces; the upper and lower half. At the front of the forearm are semi-circular rings which slip into the front handguard retaining cap.
At the rear are rings which are grooved to fit around the barrel nut, and secured by the delta ring. Installation is as easy as replacing the standard plastic handguards. Pull back on the delta ring and remove the plastic handguards. Install the MCTAR top and bottom halves how you'd normally install the plastic handguards; first the front, then the back, ensuring that the barrel nut sits in the grooves.
The delta ring locks the forearms in place securely - I could not feel any movement whatsoever.
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